Frequently Asked Questions
Things to consider before calling us
Calling a contractor causes some undue stress. What will it cost, can I fix it myself, how do I describe the problem? We offer up the questions and answers to help guide you.
There’s a variety of solutions to keep pipes from freezing. Heat tape around pipes and insulation are of the most common and go a long way in the northern winters. If the pipes are less accessible, a contractor can set an electric baseboard heater underneath the space and set it to a thermostat that will turn it on it the temperature falls below a certain degree. We never recommend leaving the tap running, squandering precious resources is never a solution.
In most instances, it is not a decrease in pressure, but a reduction in volume. Galvanized steel lines can rust, and seal shut on the inside, restricting the diameter of the pipe thus allowing less water to pass through. In this case, we recommend partially or totally replacing the pipe.
We do not advise using harsh chemicals or anything detrimental to the plumbing system or to our beautiful planet. A new toilet plunger will sometimes work. Removing the P-trap underneath the sink can often reveal clogs that are easily to remove. Beyond that, we recommend calling a licensed professional to auger the drain line with an electric snake. Precaution should be taken as not to put too much pressure on the system as it can create leaks down the road. Worst case scenario, replacement of pipes may be needed as rusting congestion can become too great for any sort of mechanical snake.
In this instance, the first thing you should do is shut the water heater down and call a licensed professional. As water heaters start to leak due to age or failure within, they are still subject to the full pressure provided by water mains. If water is leaking out of a small crack, it
still has 80 lbs. of pressure pushing behind it which has the potential to quickly turn into a flooding nightmare.
This question is best answered by often checking the filter itself to see how dirty it is.
In some instances, the main trunk lines are not sealed well enough under the house or in the attic and is losing heat to those spaces. Other times, the system may not have been sized properly and there’s not enough cubic feet per minute being delivered to the areas that need it most. As a temporary fix, you can close a few registers in the warmer rooms which will force more of the heated air to other parts of the house.
Our recommendation would be to shut the unit down and call a licensed professional or your local gas company. You should not smell any gas or propane anywhere in your house.